As the founder of Revolution magazine, The Rake, and Grail Watch, Wei Koh has spent decades shaping the cultural narrative around high watchmaking, bespoke tailoring, and classic masculine style. In this candid conversation, the outspoken publisher and raconteur reflects on the evolution of watch collecting, why mechanical timepieces matter in a digital world, and the joy of keeping independent craftsmanship alive.
Muhammad Aljunied: Looking back at when you launched Revolution magazine over twenty years ago, the watch world was a very different place—stuffy, traditional, and heavily corporate. What was the core rebellion that drove you to start the publication?
Wei Koh: When I started Revolution, watch journalism was largely PR regurgitation or dry technical manuals written in ivory towers. There was no passion, no humor, and no connection to pop culture or lifestyle.
My inspiration was simple: I wanted to create a magazine for people who didn’t just buy watches as status symbols, but who genuinely loved the mechanical poetry, the history, and the human stories behind them. We treated watchmakers like rock stars and watches like wearable art. We wanted to puncture the pretension of the industry and bring a sense of joy, irreverence, and deep scholarship back to horology.
Muhammad Aljunied: The watch market has exploded globally since then, going through massive booms, speculative bubbles, and a massive surge in younger collectors. How do you view the state of watch collecting today compared to the early days?
Wei Koh: It’s a double-edged sword. On one hand, it’s incredible that millions of people around the world now appreciate mechanical watchmaking—social media opened the floodgates, and a whole new generation discovered the magic of a sweep second hand.
On the other hand, the financialization of watches has been toxic. When watches became treated like crypto or stock portfolios by speculators looking for a quick flip, it corrupted the soul of the hobby. True collecting isn’t about what a piece is worth on the secondary market tomorrow; it’s about the emotional connection you feel when you strap it to your wrist. Thankfully, the speculative froth is settling down, and the true enthusiasts—the ones who care about independent watchmakers, artisanal finishing, and historical provenance—are back in the driver’s seat.
Muhammad Aljunied: Through your initiatives like Grail Watch and your close collaborations with brilliant independent watchmakers like MB&F, F.P. Journe, and Singer, you’ve become a master at creating ultra-desirable limited editions. What makes a collaboration truly special?
Wei Koh: A great collaboration has to have a soul and a reason for existing. It can’t just be slapping a different dial color on an existing watch and calling it a day.
When we work with independent geniuses like Maximilian Büsser or Marco Borraccino, it’s about pushing creative boundaries and having fun. Independent watchmaking is the beating heart of modern horology because these guys take massive personal risks to create things that have never been done before. When we design a piece together, we are trying to create something that makes an enthusiast’s heart beat a little faster—something with wit, technical brilliance, and absolute integrity.
Muhammad Aljunied: Alongside watches, The Rake championing classic menswear and a certain old-school elegance. In an era of endless athleisure and Silicon Valley hoodies, why do you continue to fight for tailoring and classic style?
Wei Koh: Because how you dress affects how you feel and how you treat the world. Wearing a well-cut jacket isn’t about being stuffy or formal; it’s a form of armor, an expression of respect for yourself and the people you are sharing space with.
Athleisure has its place—mostly on a treadmill or a long-haul flight—but it shouldn’t be your entire identity. Classic style is enduring, sustainable, and empowering. It has a narrative. When you wear a bespoke suit or a properly made pair of shoes, you are participating in a tradition of craftsmanship that values longevity over fast-fashion disposability.
Muhammad Aljunied: Whether you’re writing editorials, launching new design projects, or mentoring the next generation of style and horology writers, what philosophy keeps you moving at such a relentless pace?
Wei Koh: Life is too short to be boring. My father always taught me to throw yourself entirely into what you love. I consider myself the luckiest guy in the world because I get to spend my life surrounded by brilliant artisans, incredible objects, and passionate people. As long as there are stories to tell and beautiful things being created by human hands, I’ll be right here talking about them.
